What the hell, I might go ahead and post a few pictures of my joinery planes tomorrow (gotta get ready for work)... dado plane, moving fillister, plough plane, grooving plane, rabbet planes. Booyah
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Moderator: Edi
That actually sounds pretty neat. Don't see many people that know the difference between rift saw and quarter saw, though rift sawing tends to lend itself to more decorative woods while retaining a good amount of stability for retaining its shape. Quarter sawing is what you want if you want the most stable boards you can get, but you don't get a lot of pretty grain patterns.LaCroix wrote:When I once installed a wood floor to a outdoor workshop, I had the same concerns about cupping (no heating, wet seasons...) - I went the safe route and did it like ye olde shipbuilders - I paid a 20% premium for getting rift- or at least quarter-sawn planks. Warping is a non issue on these, no matter what size.
Yeah, depending on the wood used, a nice uniform slickness is actually very visually pleasing. For other woods, and interior decorating (not much of a concern for your workshop, admittedly), having a lot of grain textures and such is desirable for breaking up or creating patterns in the overall floor.LaCroix wrote:Yes, I know, you don't get no pretty texture in the common sense from such a floor, but I find the sleek elegance of a straight grain floor equally pleasing to the eye. No visible grain screams QUALITY at me.
THose are the primary concerns, but the type of wood, method the board was milled from the log, and width x thickness all play a role as well. As far as acclimating the wood goes, if you're really worried about it just let the wood sit in the space you want to lay it under the same temp/humidity range you intend the space to have once the floor's down. Even properly secured, boards can still warp with time (hence why it's better to get seasoned aged woods then green wood).Elheru Aran wrote:I could be wrong but my understanding is that warping is of minimal concern *as long as* the wood is fixed securely and acclimated to its location.
It might be less slippery, but after a while it'll get slick from absorbing any spills or moisture. If you're really worried about it being slippery, after you varnish it, rough sand it and revarnish it to get the surface a little texture. Or just use some anti-skid tape.Elheru Aran wrote:I'm reconsidering the varnish now that I remember how freaking slippery sawdust is on the manufactured flooring we have in the hall and living room. Plain unfinished pine might be less slippery.
For smaller home improvement jobs, handtools usually work just fine, and as you pointed out, they're cheaper to boot. For larger jobs or actual professional scale construction, you absolutely need power tools as they make large jobs a lot easier to tackle. Also, once you get your tool adjusted to the task, every piece comes out uniform with little or no finishing work required between the tool and installing the part/s you fashioned. It's really a cost/benefit thing depending on the specific task.Elheru Aran wrote:The handtool thing is more an economic decision than anything, really (although the sentiment side of it is definitely there, trust me). Turns out it's a lot cheaper to buy a buttload of planes and such than router tables, table saws, band saws, etc, when you can do the same job, just slower, with hand tools, and often it actually turns out to be a tad quicker because there's less fiddling. You just slap the wood on the bench and do your thing. You don't have to set up your bit, correct the height, adjust your fence, whatever.
Mind you, power tools have their place-- I would die for a decent bandsaw because trying to resaw a 12" board into thinner planks for drawer sides is no fun by hand, I use a drill press because I sheared off the head of my brace, and I probably wouldn't say no to a (decent) table saw either.
Buy a pack of cheap fiber respiration masks and that's not a problem. In fact, you should be using stuff like that anyway along with safety glasses etc. Always err on the side of safety in any task, lot less trips to the emergency room that way.Elheru Aran wrote:Another plus to hand tools? Less carcinogenic wood dust flying around. You get more shavings and such. Certainly there's sawdust when you use a hand saw, but it's not being blown around at 300000 RPM or whatever and it's not as fine.
Power tools do tend to channel the dust and shavings a bit, while they get scattered about a bit with hand tools... but it's a hell of a lot easier to convince my wife to buy a $40 plane than it is a $400 power jointer. More fun, too, and less chances of losing your digits.
Neat stuff. But the method of construction isn't the main method of preventing warpage. Turns out it's the choice of lumber (says so at 20:52 they're using boards cut from a straight dry pine tree(I guess they mean aged/seasoned here, probably YT's CC translator acting odd again). Makes sense, aged dry wood isn't prone to warpage like wet green wood. What I found nifty was the subfloor construction there. Packed dirt spaces for insulation with a hollow in the center for cool storage. That's pretty interesting stuff, probably work as well or better than an actual poured slab would, and a damn sight better than an open crawlspace.His Divine Shadow wrote:Dunno if you're talking floorboards and the like with the warping and such, but I remember reading somewhere about an old fashioned method of putting down floorboards where they where basically loose and wedged into place. Then as the wood shrinks over time you can tuck up all the boards again and fit a custom board to fill the new gap left behind in one wall. Around 20 minutes into this you can see it, its a nice video if you want to watch people built a traditional log house in the finnish way, it's all in finnish though, but just watching what they do gives a good idea of whats going on:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_3J5wkJFJzE
Should work pretty easily, really. Pine 2x6 or 2x8 planks would work just fine for what they're doing. THen again, I get the impression those gents would consider that cheating as the planks wouldn't be fashioned by hand with a hatchet (seriously, that's pretty damn awesome stuff. Can you imagine how labor intensive that project probably was?).Elheru Aran wrote:I can't imagine that method of floorboards would work with modern wood, but I can see it working with older methods where your wood might be only a few weeks out of the forest and barely dry. Wood from the store these days isn't going to shift more than a few mm in either direction, although that's enough to open up small gaps.
The thing with pine wood is that as a soft wood, it will soak up ambient moisture or liquid spills much quicker than a hardwood planking. So it'll need a good coating of varnish, touched up every year or so in places you walk upon and wear it off.Elheru Aran wrote:I could be wrong but my understanding is that warping is of minimal concern *as long as* the wood is fixed securely and acclimated to its location.
I'm reconsidering the varnish now that I remember how freaking slippery sawdust is on the manufactured flooring we have in the hall and living room. Plain unfinished pine might be less slippery.
Probably the (no offense) best move if you aren't familiar with woodworking on at least a hobbyist level. Windows are somewhat high-level and specialist beyond the basic 'hole in the wall covered with glass' type.Lisa wrote:I think I'll get a new style window frame (not wood) made for it from a window place and have a contractor friend help me install it (err have me hand him tools). I think for the likely age of the window a newer window with better R value might be worth while rather than trying to frame 2 windows on my own.
Elheru Aran wrote:Probably the (no offense) best move if you aren't familiar with woodworking on at least a hobbyist level. Windows are somewhat high-level and specialist beyond the basic 'hole in the wall covered with glass' type.Lisa wrote:I think I'll get a new style window frame (not wood) made for it from a window place and have a contractor friend help me install it (err have me hand him tools). I think for the likely age of the window a newer window with better R value might be worth while rather than trying to frame 2 windows on my own.